New releases – De Bethune DB25 Digitale

 

The dial is a study in evoking the imagery of a nocturnal scene beneath the stars, featuring 82 elements. The multifaceted display – digital for the jumping hours, analog for the minutes, spherical for the moon phase – frees the watch from hands and hour markers. Beneath this display lies a micro ball-bearing system that drives both the jumping-hour display and the rotating minute disc. The 42 mm grade 5 titanium case houses the latest version of an in-house movement.

 

Vintage Press - Journal Suisse d'Horlogerie (1948)

 

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è in fondo alla pagina)

Largely devoted to the upcoming Swiss Watch Fair in Basel, this 1948 issue of the Journal Suisse d’Horlogerie features an illustrated preview of the event.

The opening pages of the mens watches section introduce the products by such top players of the industry as Rolex, Patek Philippe, IWC, and Vacheron & Constantin.

A one-page feature is specially dedicated to the Vulcain Cricket, the innovative alarm watch launched in 1947 that had been an instant success. No mention appears of Eterna and its revolutionary self-winding movement (Eterna-Matic) patented in 1948, possibly due to the fact that the manufacturer from Grenchen did not complete the development within the delay required to exhibit at the Fair.

  

A five-page report deals with the newly opened Girard-Perregaux production plant, a large and bright building equipped with state-of-the-art facilities. Interestingly, it is the very same building that houses the La Chaux-de-Fonds brand's headquarters today.

ITALIANO

Dedicato in buona parte all’imminente Fiera svizzera dell’orologeria di Basilea, questa rivista del 1948 contiene un’ampia anteprima illustrata dell’evento. Le pagine iniziali della sezione dedicata agli orologi per uomo presentano i prodotti di Case di primo piano come Rolex, Patek Philippe, IWC e Vacheron & Constantin.

Merita una menzione l’articolo di una pagina sul Vulcain Cricket, innovativo svegliarino lanciato nel 1947 che aveva raccolto consensi immediati. Non ci sono riferimenti ad Eterna e al rivoluzionario movimento automatico (Eterna-Matic) brevettato nel 1948, forse a causa del fatto che il fabbricante di Grenchen non aveva completato lo sviluppo in tempo per la presentazione alla Fiera.

La rivista dedica un reportage di cinque pagine al nuovo impianto produttivo di Girard Perregaux, stabilimento ampio e luminoso equipaggiato con la tecnologia più recente. Va notato che la sede attuale della Casa di La Chaux-de-Fonds si trova presso lo stesso edificio.

Watches at auction - Geneva

Here are a few highlights of the upcoming auction held by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on 7-8 November in Geneva.

 

Housed in a 18k yellow gold Wenger case, this Patek Philippe Ref. 2497 from 1953 stands out for its first-series dial, which bears the signature of Manhattan retailer Gumbiner. Estimate : CHF 250,000-500,000. 

 

The 18k gold case of this Rolex Ref. 6062 retains its original lines, curves, and finishes. Its dial shows barely any signs of aging. The original Super Oyster crown also remains in place. Estimate : CHF 600,000-1,200,000. 

 

This platinum Chronométre à Resonance by F.P. Journe dating from 2002 features a pink gold dial with a hand-engraved geometric pattern inspired by French Régence decoration. Estimate: CHF 1,000,000-2,000,000. 

 

A little over a dozen yellow gold examples with cloisonné enamel dials of the Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 605HU are currently known, including just five depicting North America and a palm tree. Estimate: CHF 300,000-600,000. 

  

Portico Mystery Clock No. 4 is one of six made by Cartier between 1923 and 1925, and the only example with a hexagonal dial. The structure incorporates yellow gold, platinum, enamel, onyx, jade, mother-of-pearl, seed pearls, and diamonds. The manually wound movement is concealed in the arch above the suspended dial. Estimate : CHF 1,800,000-3,200,000.  

Stainless steel examples of the Patek Philippe Ref. 1436 spilt-second chronograph are exceptionally rare. Produced in 1945, this one is remarkably preserved. Estimate: CHF 2,000,000-4,000,000.

New releases – Blancpain Bathyscaphe

 

This 300-piece limited edition celebrates the 70th anniversary of the diver’s model introduced in 1968 as the civilian version of the Fifty Fathoms. The 37.4 mm stainless steel case houses the Manufacture Calibre 1150 with a 100-hour power reserve and an Haute Horlogerie finishing visible through the sapphire crystal back. The design of the 18k gold rotor is inspired by that of the original Fifty Fathoms. The sunburst meteor grey dial features baton hands and indexes with vintage-coloured Super-Luminova®. Price: CHF 13,800.

WIPO-registered watch design available for licensing

 

 

Centering around a specific case shape and a unique dial texture, this WIPO-registered watch design is available for licensing to qualified manufacturers. Conceived to catch the eye and command retail presence, it also pays tribute to the world’s capital of watchmaking – its source of inspiration being the Plaine de Plainpalais, the diamond-shaped esplanade located in the center of Geneva. 

Are you an industry professional interested in this design? Click here for more information and the contact details. 

Vintage ads - Edox (1966)

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è sotto l'immagine)

"The new Edox DiaMatic has a square case with patented closing system. It can be opened and closed with the same keys that are used for round cases ". The simpler solution for waterproofing square watches was adopting a round screw-down case back, as is the case here.   
Do you like vintage watch ads? Visit the page about Watch Ads, my two-volume pictorial history of communication and design in 20th Century watchmaking. You can also watch the video about the publication and download a 20-page preview of Volume 1.
The vintage ads presented in this Blog are not featured in the Watch Ads books.

ITALIANO 
“Il nuovo Edox DiaMatic ha una cassa quadrata con sistema di chiusura brevettato. È possibile aprirla e chiuderla con le stesse chiavi utilizzate per le casse rotonde”. Per impermeabilizzare gli orologi quadrati la soluzione più semplice era adottare un fondo cassa avvitabile di forma rotonda, come in questo caso.
Ti piacciono le pubblicità d'epoca? Visita la pagina su Watch Ads, la mia storia illustrata in due volumi della comunicazione e del design nell'orologeria del Novecento. Guarda il video sull'opera e scarica l'anteprima di 20 pagine del Volume 1.
Gli annunci pubblicitari d'epoca che vedi in questo Blog non sono presentati nei volumi Watch Ads.

New Releases – Renaud Tixier Monday Organica

The dial motif, an organic composition inspired by the forms of the living world, is derived from the curves of three components of the movement. The dial was created by Ateliers Olivier Vaucher with mixed techniques including hand engraving, hand chasing and black grand feu enamel. Each of the three versions – Blue (2025), Black and Bordeaux (2026) – is limited to seven pieces. The 40.8 mm, 5N rose gold case of the Bordeaux houses the automatic Calibre RVI2023, whose micro-rotor is fitted with a flywheel to optimise the winding efficiency.