New releases – Greubel Forsey 24 Secondes Architecture

The design of the watch, first presented in 2022 and now launched in its final edition of 11 pieces, is the movement itself, displayed and visible from all angles. The conical-frustum titanium case integrates sapphire crystal around the full periphery. At the heart of the calibre lies the tourbillon, positioned at 6 o’clock and rotating once every 24 seconds at a 25° inclination. The movement comprises 354 components, including an 86-part tourbillon cage weighing only 0.38 grams. In this final version the contrasts between surfaces are slightly reinforced, enhancing legibility and depth. 

 

Watches at auction

Here are a few highlights from the upcoming Phillips auctions held by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo in Hong Kong (30-31 May) and New York (13-14 June).

 

The Patek Philippe Ref. 3448 was the world’s first self‑winding perpetual calendar wristwatch. This white gold example from 1972 features, pearly minute divisions, rare “reversed” date numerals, an unusual Patek Philippe signature placement, and a dial double‑signed by Beyer Chronometrie, the historic Zurich store recently acquired by Patek Philippe. Hong Kong, estimate: $ 765,000-1,500.000

 

This pink gold Patek Philippe timepiece is the only known Ref. 2499 First Series in pink gold stamped with British hallmarks. Manufactured in 1951, imported to London in 1955, and sold in 1956, the case back bears both a British import mark and a Swiss hallmark. Hong Kong, estimate: $ 3,000,000-6,000.000

 

This oversized yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with engraved caseband and Breguet numerals was made by Patek Philippe in 1929 and retailed by Tiffany & Co. Its original owner was Paul Starrett, builder of Iconic New York Landmarks, including the Empire State Building, Flatiron Building, and The Plaza Hotel. New York, estimate: $ 15,000-30,000

 

Fresh to the auction market, this Ref. 1518 from 1948 is one of only around 58 to be have been cased in pink gold. This version of the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar cronograph wristwatch festures Portuguese calendar discs. New York, estimate: $ 1,200,000-2,400,000

 

Made around 1967, this yellow gold Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239 is one among only a handful known with a creamy champagne “Paul Newman” dial. This is its second appearance after it was offered at Phillips New York by the family of the original owner in 2020. New York, Estimate: $ 600,000-1,200,000

 

New releases – David Candaux DC6 Night Forest

 

 

Produced in a limited edition of eight pieces, the lightest watch in the independent watchmaker’s collection (45 grams on the wrist) features a 45 mm case in UD carbon and natural titanium with a smoky topaz green dial, and the retractable “Magic Crown” at 6 o’clock. UD stands for unidirectional, which means that the sheets of continuous fiber run through the entire thickness of the material. The in-house Caliber H74 features a flying tourbillon inclined at 30°, completing a revolution in 60 seconds, and a 55-hour power reserve. Price: CHF 248,000.

Vintage Rolex Library - Part 2: What is necessary to know (1982)

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è in fondo alla pagina)

This is instalment 2 of the mini-series dealing with publications I could not include in the Documents sections of Rolex 1961-2025 for lack of space. Instalment 1 was posted last month.

 

Dating back to 1982, this brochure in Italian is of particular interest because it is meant for the sales staff of Rolex agents rather than the public. As the title suggests, its 32 pages highlight “What is necessary to know” about a number of Rolex-related topics

 

The booklet opens with an introduction by Director General André Heiniger: “This brochure, dedicated to you, will give you an even better understanding of Rolex watches, and in particular the technical qualities that have made them so prestigious”

 

Several pages are devoted to the unique features of the Oyster case, its record-breaking performances, and the state-of-the-art technology that enables to achieve and test its waterproofness

 

The section about the Perpetual movement and accuracy explains the meaning of the Chronometer certification, underscored by the Red Seal that comes with each Rolex Superlative Chronometer

 

A few “tool” models are covered in detail, as their functions need some clarifications. The pages about the GMT-Master feature two examples of how to use it

 

The next pages point out that “Rolex watches also have their shop windows” and urge sales managers to ask for branded display stands

 

ITALIANO

Questa è la seconda parte della mini-serie dedicata alle pubblicazioni che non ho potuto inserire nelle sezioni Documenti di Rolex1961-2025 per mancanza di spazio. La prima puntata è stata pubblicata il mese scorso.

Questa brochure del 1982 questa brochure in Italiano ha un interesse particolare perché si dirige al personale di vendita degli agenti Rolex e non al pubblico. Come indica il titolo, le sue 32 pagine mettono in evidenza “Quello che è necessario sapere” su numerosi argomenti legati alla Casa

Il libretto si apre con un messaggio del Direttore Generale André Heiniger: “Questa brochure, che Le è dedicate, Le permetterà di conoscere ancora meglio gli orologi Rolex, e in particolare le qualità tecniche che li hanno resi prestigiosi”

Diverse pagine trattano le caratteristiche uniche della cassa Oyster, le sue imprese da record e la tecnologia all’avanguardia che permette di raggiungerne e testarne l’impermeabilità

La sezione sulla precisione e il movimento Perpetual spiega il significato della certificazione cronometrica, evidenziata dal Sigillo Rosso che accompagna ciascuno dei “Cronometri Superlativi” Rolex

Alcuni modelli professionali sono descritti in dettaglio poiché le loro funzioni richiedono dei chiarimenti. Le pagine sul GMT-Master contengono due esempi del suo uso.

Le pagine seguenti fanno notare che “Gli orologi Rolex hanno anche le loro vetrine” e incoraggiano i responsabili dei punti vendita a richiedere gli espositori ufficiali

New releases – Carl Suchy & Söhne Waltz N°1 Hoffmann

The dial is based on a geometric grid of concentric lines.The rotating Waltzing Disc at six o’clock completes the linear composition once every minute. The 41.5 mm stainless steel case houses the automatic Caliber CSS-A1, measuring 30 millimetres in diameter and 2.6 millimetres in height, realised in collaboration with Vaucher Fleurier Manufacture exclusively for the Viennese brand. Its skeletonised bridges are visible through the sapphire glass. Price: CHF 19,450 excl. VAT.

Watches at auction

Here are a few highlights of the upcoming auction held by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on 9-10 May in Geneva.

 

The Audemars Piguet Ref. 5503 triple-calendar chronograph with moon-phase was produced between 1941 and 1943 in only five examples. The present watch features a two-tone case combining stainless steel with 14k pink gold for the bezel, crown, and pushers. Estimate: CHF 400,000 – 800,000

 

Made in 1953, this Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 two-crown world time wristwatch is one of only two examples known to exist in 18k yellow gold with a polychrome cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of South America. It has been nearly four decades since one has been seen at public auction. Estimate: CHF 5,000,000 – 10,000,000

 

This 18k yellow gold Rolex Ref. 6085 features a cloisonné enamel dial depicting a dragon – one of only five known examples of the motif across all Rolex references. The dial was created by the enameller Nelly Richard, working with the famed Geneva dialmaker Stern Frères. Estimate: CHF 500,000 – 1,000,000

 

Introduced at the Basel fair in 1950, the Rolex Ref. 6062 was the brand’s first automatic wristwatch to combine a triple calendar with moon-phase within a waterproof Oyster case. The present example is in stainless steel. Estimate: CHF 500,000 – 1,000,000

 

Nicknamed “Cioccolatone” by collectors, the Vacheron Constantin oversized square wristwatch hit the market in the early 1950s. This 18k pink gold Ref. 4764 represents the model in its most prestigious configuration, featuring a triple calendar with moon-phase. Estimate: CHF 250,000 – 500,000

 

New releases – Maghnam Mohareb

 

The new generation Mohareb collection is available in two colorways – Argent Crimson and Deep Blue – and three aesthetic configurations: the Blades, Halo and Wings versions offer distinct visual identities around a shared central case in L904 stainless steel thanks to interchangeable modules that instantly transform the watch’s silhouette. The bi-retrograde display is driven by the MCR01-B module, based on the Swiss SW210 hand-wound movement and enhanced with a proprietary retrograde module developed by the brand’s founder Sohaib Maghnam. Price: CHF 7,200 VAT excl.